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Southern elephant seals enjoy a mud bath on the South Shetland Islands as gentoo penguins waddle about. Below,
an adult gentoo feeds a chick. Adult gentoo penguins will feed any of the chicks raised in its colony.

Continued from the previous page             the icy water. Wilhelmina Bay is a great    horseshoe-shaped island. Roughly 20
                                             place to see whales, and from the Zodiac    miles north of Deception Island we came
in which Waddington Bay and the              we were able to observe Humpback and        to Hannah Point on Livingston Island,
Vernadsky Research Base can be found.        Minke whales, getting as close as the       our last stop within the Antarctic Circle.
The Vernadsky Base is a permanently-         rules allowed. We also encountered a fur    Home to a large Gentoo and Chinstrap
staffed Ukrainian research station which     seal sunning on an iceberg, the only fur    Penguin colony as well as numerous
examines meteorology, geomagnetism,          seal of the trip.                           elephant seals, this island is situated
seismology, glaciology and numerous                                                      between the Drake Passage and the
other scientific subjects. We were given a   By the eleventh day of our trip we had      Southern Ocean, making the ride to
tour of the facility and posted most of our  arrived at the South Shetland Islands and   shore in the small Zodiac the roughest
cards from there. Those of us who wished     paid visits to Deception Island, which is   ride of the trip.
were able to add a Ukrainian stamp to        actually the caldera of an active volcano,
our passports.                               and Whalers Bay, located within the         The final days of the cruise were spent
                                                                                         crossing the Drake Passage, with a detour
Cruising along the Penola Strait, we                                                     past Cape Horn and then sailing through
came upon the Petermann and Pleneau                                                      the Beagle Channel back to Ushuaia.
Islands roughly five miles north from the
Ukrainian research base. Here, the hardy                                                 Every day of the cruise, the team
among us were given the chance to camp                                                   hosted presentations that taught
out. A few really hardy souls took a polar                                               us about icebergs, penguins, seals
plunge - two individuals plunged twice.                                                  and birds, as well as the history and
Following our camp out, we continued on                                                  geography of Antarctica. The coldest,
our northbound trajectory through the                                                    driest and windiest continent on earth,
Southern Gerlache Strait and Neumayer                                                    Antarctica has no government. Instead,
Channel until we reached Cuverville                                                      it is regulated by the Antarctic Treaty
Island and Wilhelmina Bay. Here, we                                                      System, which requires all tour operators
boarded a shallow, inflatable boat called                                                abide by a set of rules governing where
a Zodiac and navigated our way across                                                    they can go, where visitors may land and
                                                                                         how many people may come ashore at one

98 | SUNRAYS APRIL 2016                                                                  ONLINE: SCTEXAS.ORG
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