NOVEMBER 2014 SUNRAYS | 41
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T
o its drama-hungry devotees, it is
recognizable on sight: sprawling
grounds, acres of formal gardens
and flowers - in brilliant sunshine, it
almost seems to glow. Sitting on a bench
overlooking the landscape, I feel as Lady
Mary must have felt as she sat in this
very spot, mourning her late husband
– how could they have killed him off?!
Known to millions as the setting and
namesake of the wildly popular PBS se-
ries
Downton Abbey
, Highclere Castle
is every bit as lush and melodramatic
as the series that centers about it; and,
with
Downton Abbey
broadcasting regu-
larly in over 100 countries to a global
audience of 120 million people, global
travelers have been making this stately
home busier than it’s ever been.
Located in Newbury, England, the High-
clere is open to visitors June, July and
August. Tickets sell out within hours,
but by daily checking the website (www.
highclerecastle.com), I was able to get
two tickets - one for myself, and one for
a friend in London. On the day of our
visit, we took a one-hour train ride from
London to Newbury, then a short taxi
ride directly to the castle.
With so much history, past and present,
my companion and I were eager to tour
the Highclere Castle. We happened to
visit on one of the hottest days of the
year, with temperatures reaching into
the 90s. Though it didn’t feel much dif-
ferent fromTexas weather, the lack of air
conditioning within the old buildings cer-
tainly made things a lot less comfortable.
The castle interior is much like it is por-
trayed on television, but alas, no photog-
raphy is allowed inside. The servants’
quarters, with their plain, stone stair-
case, are so different from the magnifi-
cent mahogany staircase we often see in
the series, watching the family descend
to the dining room. The stark contrast
serves as a reminder of the realities of
how the owners lived in this stately home
not so long ago.
Downton Abbey
accurately reflects the
history of Highclere Castle, telling the
story of an enormously rich American
heiress infusing much-needed cash into
the castle coffers. The heiress, Almina,
was contracted to marry George Herbert,
the fifth Earl of Carnarvon, who had
land, assets, and a title, but little wealth.
Almina, the 19-year-old illegitimate
daughter of Alfred de Rothschild, had
money, but a questionable lineage, leav-
ing her on the fringes of polite society.
With her father’s provision of a £500,000
dowry (roughly $81 million in current
US dollars), marriage furnished both
parties with what they sorely needed.
Newly flush with cash, Lord Carnarvon
was able to indulge in his many varied
hobbies. Following a visit to Egypt in
1889, Carnarvon developed an intense
passion for Egyptian archeology. Us-
ing Almina’s wealth, he hired Howard
Carter to oversee the excavation of the
Valley of the Kings, an endeavor which
dragged on for 14 years with few results.
By 1922, Carnarvon had spent approxi-
mately £50,000 with nothing to show - it
was time to trim expenses.
Lord Carnarvon informed Carter that
this would be the last year he would
support the digging. One week after
arriving in Egypt for the digging sea-
son, Carter sent the Earl a telegram:
“Wonderful discovery in the Valley of
the Kings. Magnificent tomb with seals
intact. Will await your arrival.” Carter
had discovered the tomb of King Tut-
ankhamen.
In January 1922, the Lord arrived in
Egypt, and the tomb was opened. As-
tounding riches and ancient treasures
filled the cavern. Though Lord Carnar-
von had reveled in the discovery, a mere
three months later, he was dead. The
official record blames an insect bite,
though many have wondered if the Earl
might have been a victim of the Pha-
raoh’s Curse.
As was customary, the Earl’s body was
taken back to Highclere for burial, and
his eldest son inherited the title and the
castle. Lady Almina moved to the dower
house. Along with his inheritance, the
sixth Earl also was required to pay death
duties which, at 60 percent, were crip-
pling. This high rate of taxation caused
many stately homes to be turned over
to the government. Fortunately, Almina
was able to alleviate much of the debt.
She also generously supported further
research on Tutankhamen’s tomb, in-
cluding the years it took to detail and
record every uncovered artifact. Sadly,
Almina’s life was spiraling down – lavish
spending, poor investments, and a series
of disastrous relationships ultimately
left the Countess bankrupt. In 1969, at
93 years of age, Almina Herbert, Count-
ess of Carnarvon, died, penniless and
socially outcast.
Though a grand and beautiful piece of
history, truly living in a stately home
such as Highclere is not without its draw-
backs. Upkeep, for instance, is a major
financial undertaking – the roof alone
would take $8.5 million to replace. The
present Lady Carnarvon states that the
series has really put them on the map
and allowed them to make many repairs
and upgrades to the castle, none of which
would have been possible without the
publicity and income from ticket sales.
Knowing my ticket helped to maintain
this remarkable destination enhanced
my visit to what truly is a wonderful,
stately home - of which I feel very much
a part!
George Herbert, the fifth Earl of Carnar-
von, and wife Almina, 1921.
Left: Sun City resident Edna Heard braved
90 degree temperatures to visit High-
clere Castle, the setting of the popular
TV series
Downton Abbey
.
